One cable to rule them all: POE for your WRT54G
Last updates: 21-Jun-2009
Warning: This hack will not just void your warranty. It will drop-kick it to the floor, stomp it in the gonads five or six times, shoot it in the head, douse the body in petrol and set it ablaze THEN spit on the remains for good measure. And that doesn’t take into consideration what it could do to you or your equipment . You have been warned. Don’t try this unless you’re comfortable with multimeters and soldering irons.
Now, on to the good stuff. Suppose you have a Linksys WRT54G router & antenna that you want to mount somewhere, say on your roof. So, one fine Saturday morining, you grab a few tools and get to work. About 35 minutes into your little project, it hits you: How exactly do you get power for your router? The roof has no power outlets and you need to keep the antenna cable as short as possible to minimize signal losses.
You start wondering, “Maybe I should have gotten a Meraki. They come with Power Over Ethernet(POE).” Then, it hits you, “Wait! Maybe I could run some power over the ethernet cable…” So you do a little scholarly research(a la google) and find a few people who have modified their routers to support POE.
Basically, ye olde ethernete cable has 4 pairs of wires, each pair consisting of a solidily coloured cable and a white-striped cable of the same colour. The usual arrangement(TIA/EIA-568-B) for most patch cables is:

100BASE-TX makes use of wires 1,2,3 & 6 to transmit and receive data, leaving wires 4,5,7 & 8 for our use.
Update: I forgot to mention. Once you do this hack, you have to remember that if you power the router up in the normal manner, power will still be supplied from the power terminals to pin 5 and pin 8 on the WAN port. Keep this in mind if you’re connecting the router to other equipment to avoid …unexpected results. I use a customized cable that has wires 4, 5 ,7 & 8 cut and terminated in the middle of the cable just to be safe
First we need to do is solder a couple of wires, one from pin 5 to the positive terminal on the router’s board and the other from pin 8 to the negative terminal. This will transfer the power coming in over the cable to the power jack on the board where the router can make use of it.
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This is the only modification that needs to be done on the router itself. However, don’t pack everything up until you’ve tested to make sure its working.
Next up will be our injector. Now, there are many ways to feed power into the cable. You can buy a power over ethernet injector, splice the power cable directly in the network cable or build your own injector. I’d recommend buying a power over ethernet injector; it’s a more reliable option and you don’t have to mutilate the poor cables.
But then, if you’re reading this guide, you probably don’t have an injector available or are thinking,”Building my own POE injector is just so much cooler!!” In that case, you’ll need a keystone jack, a spare ethernet cable, and a power brick for the router (It’s usually better to get a spare of equivalent rating as the original since these instructions will make it …unwieldy for normal use)
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What you do trim off one end of your ethernet cable and connect wires 1,2,3 and 6 to the jack. These are your data lines.
Then you take the plug off your power brick and connect the +ve to pin 5 on the jack and the -ve to pin 8. Trim off any unnessary lengths and you have your own power injector.
Once that’s done, feel free to call all your friends and gloat over how clever you are.
Router:
Power Injector:
July 25th, 2008 10 Comments
What injector are you using? Not the custom one.
Thanks!
@Jonah: Got that from a friend. Can’t remember where he got it. Will see if he remembers
You could always go to a wireless internet service provider (if you have one in your town like I do) and ask to buy just the injector. Works for me; just remember to check your voltages coming out of the ethernet cable at the router end first…
So, was the friend ever able to remember where he got that injector?
Yeah, it was leftover from a project he was working on. But if you have any wireless ISPs in your area, you can talk to them and see if they can get you one(that’s how I get mine these days)
While this is a very informative and cool, it seems that there is a simpler solution that would keep your warranty intact without all the gonad stomping and allow you to revert back to normal operation without having to have a special cable for your WAN port.
It would be to simple to make a cable stripped in such away where you have a couple of inches of the blue/white and solid brown that you could solder an power jack onto and seal with heat shrink. then you could still build the injector as you have it here(great idea!).
@Charlie: Well, that is true and in a ‘real-life scenario’, that’s probably what I’d do. But, the chance to mutilate my poor router just seemed too much fun to pass up.(The poor thing is still on active duty, by the way). Will add some new pictures showing the alternative. Thanks.
I’ve seen this hack before where someone added a 12 V diode inline so that current from the real power adapter can’t flow back into the WAN point. They’re available at Radio Shack
http://andahammer.com/poemi/
this injector?
Yeah, that’s the one.